Celebrating a Maltese Christmas
09/11/2009 14:50:00 Story by Charles Byers 

Photo by Bruno Vetters, courtesy of Malta Tourism Authority 

Christmas celebrations around the world are always fun things to consider. Most people know about North America’s concept of an Irving Berlin White Christmas and all that goes with it. While the Christmas tree, Santa and gift giving have become fixtures in many parts of the world many countries have retained their traditional customs. 

The island of Malta has adapted some of its customs to many of the Christmas icons seen in Britain and the West. However, it has kept many of its uniquely Maltese traditions — including wine!

While Christmas is still largely celebrated as a religious feast celebrating the birth of Jesus Christ, the secular aspects of the feast have become entrenched in their celebrations. Wine belongs to both the religious (Mass) and secular celebrations.

The aspects of wine celebrations, Christmas or otherwise, reflect the history, geography and culture of those who are celebrating with it. This remains true with Malta. Bill Hermitage, winemaker and consultant for Delicata Wines, one of Malta’s major wine estates, stated, “Wine has been made in Malta for over 6,000 years. Some of the indigenous grapes still survive and are still used to this day.”

Delicata, which is situated on a restored waterfront, has recently undergone renovations in the form of a fine new winery that is able to host wine tours and events including Christmas features. Bill pointed to a rather ominous looking cement vat erected between the winery and the Mediterranean shore.

“We hope to have that removed so we can ferry people across the water to the winery! That will make a difference and will add to the celebrations!” 
Wine has been a part of the Maltese scene since Neolithic times but it hasn’t been until recently that concentrated efforts to develop a modern wine industry within Malta itself. Up until the mid 1990s, many on the island were satisfied with imported wine (which is still a very major industry) and inferior wine made on the island. Then in the late 1990s things started to change and a new concept of winemaking in Malta took hold.
In addition, the relatively new concept of “Agri-tourism” is making itself known. The gregarious and unofficial “Godfather of Wine” in Malta, Victor Bonello of Montekristo Wines, put it this way:

“I love celebrating the Christmas season with wine and food! I knew that Malta, because of its climate, was capable of making exceptional wine. Wine was not taken seriously here but I brought my passion into the mould. I am passionate about two things: my country and wine. I wanted to see Malta make its own wine — good wine — and both owner Charles Polidano and I wanted to have a place for the Maltese people to be able to celebrate it.”

And a place to celebrate he has! A virtual palace exists not far in a town called Siggewi. The magnificent Greco-Modern buildings house some of the most up to date and computerized equipment anywhere. “Here, you press a button and the computer does the fermentation process for you,” Bonello says, though he adds a corollary, “but the hand of the winemaker makes the final decision!”

In addition to the wine-making facilities, the spacious winery houses iconic statues that would make the Louvre jealous. It also houses dining halls and entertainment facilities. Plays depicting Maltese history and seasonal celebrations are put on weekly for both the Maltese and tourists alike. “Christmas is a celebration. Life is a celebration. No one has time to get bored here,” Bonello adds.

Montekristo’s premium wine, the Pewter labeled Magnus has quite a following which includes Madonna and Jack Nicholson both of whom purchase it for special parties.

In contrast to Montekristo, Meridiana Estate Winery’s décor is that of a country house but one with unique underground cellars and blockbuster Syrah and Cabernet wines. Its emblem, a Sundial, and the name reflect Malta’s southern location. Oenologist Roger Aquilina says this of the Christmas Season, “Maltese love to celebrate and Christmas is the perfect time to light up the winery and give special treats. Many churches place lights around their whole perimeter and Malta at night, Malta looks like a Christmas tree.”

The cultural aspects of Maltese cuisine and gastronomy have certainly combined with the new resurgence of wine to form a new bond. There are the traditional dishes of fried/stewed rabbit, baked rooster with veggies, goat’s cheese, Mqarrun il-forn (baked Macaroni pasta with meat), Bragjoli (eggs, ham wrapped in lean meat) and the ever popular Pastizzi---ricotta cheese and peas enclosed within deliciously decadent pastry.
Dessert is not to be overlooked since many Maltese have sweet tooth which is satiated with Qaghaq tal-Ghasel (Honey or Treacle wrapped in pastry rings), Qaghaq tal-Qastanija (Sweetened Chestnuts wrapped in a pastry ring), Mqaret (dates stuffed in pastry and deep fried) and finally, Tipsy Cake, Rum or Vermouth flavoured cake with a jam filling and topped with mounds of creamy custard.

The Maltese have become accustomed to dishes from other countries. Two hundred years of British rule (Malta became independent in 1964 and a republic in 1974) have provided an affinity for Christmas turkey, pudding, mince pie and fruit cake and of course they love Italian Pantone.

Indigenous Grapes
These delicious eats are a great match for the great Cabernets, Merlots, Syrah, Viogniers and Chardonnays created in Malta. Some wineries are even resurrecting their own indigenous grapes, Gelewza and Girgentina. The Gelewza produces very fresh wine characteristics that lend themselves well to a wine similar to a sparkling rose. Famed tennis player Bjorn Borg was recently seen in Sweden sharing a bottle of Delicata Gelewza Sparkling with DeDe a well known singer.

The Maltese know how to celebrate. Predating many “modern” civilizations by thousands of years and enduring many hardships along the way, Malta and its people have learned to celebrate victory in life. They now have another celebrant to share Christmas with — wine.